Vera Wang wrote in her show notes that she was inspired by stylish American women such as Lady Emerald Cunard and Wallis Simpson, who mixed with English aristocracy in the 1930s. Their free-spiritedness was probably what she had in mind when she paired technical outerwear with delicate, 1930s-inspired pleated chiffon dresses.

But that seemed to be the extent of this one-note collection. There were fur-trimmed satin parkas, faille sleeveless coats and vests, and a dozen variations on the same chiffon multi-pleated and tucked dress (which requires a rail-thin physique to pull off), done in different lengths and different shades of drab taupe, black, gray and mustard.

OK, so maybe there were a few skirts -- but they looked just like the dresses with the tops chopped off.

This isn't the first time Wang has done endless permutations of the same idea. Maybe it's the curse of designing bridal wear for so long that has made it difficult for her to think outside the box.

-- Booth Moore in New York

Photos: Looks from the Vera Wang Fall-Winter 2011 runway collection shown during New York Fashion Week. Credit: Jonas Gustavsson and Peter Stigter / For The Times.